Psyduck Amigurumi Pattern


  • Stylecraft Special DK, Colours: Mustard, Buttermilk
  • 2mm hook & 1mm hook
  • White felt
  • Black Sharpie pen
  • Fabric glue
  • Black embroidery floss
  • Polyester toy filling
  • Pins
  • Darning needle
  • Stitch markers (I prefer using scrap yarn as “stitch markers”)


Psyduck is approximately 11.5cm tall, 11.5cm in width, and approximately 12cm from the beak to the tip of the tail.



dc double crochet
htr half treble
sl st slip stitch
st/sts stitch/es
inc increase with dc 2 in one st
dec decrease; insert hook in the front loop of the next two sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, y.o. and pull through remaining two loops –> one dc placed into two sts
rs right side
ws wrong side
inc3 increase 3; increase by placing 3 dc in one stitch


I would recommend using a photo of Psyduck for reference for best possible outcome.

Attach all the limbs in the same order as the patter is written. Pin them all into place first to make sure the placement is correct and resembles a photo of Psyduck.

Cut out two small oval pieces of white felt to use as eyes. Use a Sharpie pen (or a similar black marker) to draw a black dot in the middle of each eye. Once all the limbs and the hair have been attached glue the eyes on.




The head and body will be worked as on piece from top to bottom.

Yarn: Mustard

Round 1: dc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
R2: inc in all sts around (12)
R3: (dc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (dc 2, inc) x 6 (24)
R5: (dc 3, inc) x 6 (30)
R6: (dc 4, inc) x 6 (36)
R7: (dc 5, inc) x 6 (42)
R8: dc 42
R9: (dc 6, inc) x 6 (48)
R10-14: dc 48
R15: (dc 6, dec) x 6 (42)
R16: dc 42
R17: (dc 5, dec) x 6 (36)
R18: dc 36
R19: (dc 4, dec) x 6 (30)

The head is now done, continue on the body without fastening off:

R20: (dc 4, inc) x 6 (36)
R21: (dc 5, inc) x 6 (42)
R22: (dc 6, inc) x 6 (48)
R23: (dc 7, inc) x 6 (54)
R24: (dc 8, inc) x 6 (60)

R25-34: dc 60

R35: (dc 8, dec) x 6 (54)
R36: (dc 7, dec) x 6 (48)
R37: (dc 6, dec) x 6 (42)
R38: (dc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Start stuffing the head and body

R39: (dc 4, dec) x 6 (30)
R40: (dc 3, dec) x 6 (24)
R41: (dc 2, dec) x 6 (18)
R42: (dc, dec) x 6 (12)
R43: (dec) x 6 (6)

Fasten off and weave in loose end.


Yarn: Buttermilk

ch 8 – we will be working in the round
Round 1: (inc, dc 5, inc) x 2 (18)
R2: (inc, dc 7, inc) x 2 (22)
R3: (inc, dc 10) x 2 (24)
R4-5: dc 24
R6: (dec, dc 10) x 2 (22)
R7: (dec, dc 9) x 2 (20)
R8: (dec, dc 8) x 2 (18)
R9-10: dc 18
R11: (inc3, dc 8) x 2 (22) – (for “inc3” please refer to the STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS section at the start of this post)
R12: (dc, inc, dc 9) x 2 (24)
R13: dc 2, inc, dc 9) x 2 (26)
R14: dc 3, inc, dc 4, (htr, tr) one st, (tr, htr) in next st, dc 4, inc, fasten off (17 sts only, leaving the rest of the round unworked)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff lightly before attaching to body.



Yarn: Mustard

Round 1: dc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
R2: dc 6
R3: (dc, inc) x 3 (9)
R4: dc 9
R5: dc 3, (dc 2, inc) x 2 (11)
R6: dc 11
R7: dc 3, (dc 3, inc) x 2 (13)
R8: dc 13
R9: dc 3, (dc 4, inc) x 2 (15)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff lightly before attaching to body.


Yarn: Mustard
Make 2

Round 1: dc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
R2: (inc3, dc 2) x 2 (10)
R3: dc 10
R4: (dc, inc, dc 3) x 2 (12)
R5-6: dc 12
R7: (dc, inc, dc 4) x 2 (14)
R8-9: dc 14

the rest of the arm will be worked in rows:

Row 10 (rs): dc 3, turn
R11 (ws): dc 11, turn
R12 (rs): dc 11, turn
R13 (ws): dc 11, turn
R14 (rs): sk 1 st, dc 8, sk 1 st, dc, turn (9)
R15 (ws): sk 1 st, dc 6, sk 1 st, dc, turn (7)
R16 (rs): sk 1 st, dc 4, sk 1 st, dc, turn (5)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff before attaching to body.



Yarn: Buttermilk
Make 2

Round 1: dc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
R2: inc in all sts around (12)
R3: (dc 3, inc) x 3 (15)
R4: dc 15
R5: (dc 4, inc) x 3 (18)
R6: dc 18
R7: (dc 5, inc) x 3 (21)
R8: dc 21

Stuff lightly.

The main part of the foot is done, but do not fasten off just yet – we’re going to go straight onto making the first toe:

R9 – Toe no 1: dc 3, skip the next 14 sts and dc in the last 4 sts of the round (7)
R10 – Toe no 1: dc 2, dec, dc, dec (5)

Fasten off and weave in the end by going through each front loop and tighten 

R9 – Toe no 2: attach yarn to the fourth st, dc in same st, and dc in the next two sts,  skip the next 7 sts and dc in the next 4 sts of the round (7)
R10 – Toe no 2: dc 2, dec, dc, dec (5)

Fasten off and weave in the end by going through each front loop and tighten

R9 – Toe no 3: attach yarn to the seventh st, dc in same st, and dc in the next six sts (7)
R10 – Toe no 3: dc 2, dec, dc, dec (5)

Fasten off and weave in the end by going through each front loop and tighten


Using your 1mm hook and black embroidery floss chain 6, sl st into the second ch from hook, sl st in the remaining four chains (first hair made, continue without fastening off),

ch 8, sl st in second ch from hook and in the next six chains, sl st into the previous hair (second hair made, continue without fastening off),

ch 6, sl st in the second ch from hook and in the remaining four chains, sl st in the beginning of the first hair, fasten off and leave long end for sewing



Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. I’ve loved writing this pattern so please don’t forget to credit the pattern designer.

INSTAGRAM – I would love to see your creations! Don’t forget to tag me in your post or on your photo (@loopycathrine), and don’t forget to use #loopycathrineamigurumi

RAVELRY – I’m also on Ravelry so come find me and my other patterns there!

For any questions in relation to this pattern, please comment below and I will do my best to respond.

Pokémon and Pokémon character names are trademarks of Nintendo

47 thoughts on “Psyduck Amigurumi Pattern

  1. It’s beautiful! Psyduck is one of my favourite pokemon and I’m definitely going to try it. Very nice written and many helpful pictures! Great job 😊


  2. I’m confused by the fact that the picture shows single crochet and the directions call for double crochet. The neck seems thick, not like the picture. Can you clarify?


  3. How would I go about making it bigger? How would you recommend I increase the pattern. My little boy would love a larger toy as this is only 11.5cm.


    1. You could try using thicker yarn and a bigger hook. But I’ve not done this myself so I don’t know if it would come out right… apologies for the lack of help!


    1. Hi Carol. Yes, you will work along the chain loops on one side first, and then move on to the other side and work in the chain loops there too, and it creates an oval shape. Good luck!


  4. Hey! Really enjoying the pattern so far! The beak is the first “unique” shape I got to make (instead of the usual rounds and rows) and I find it so enjoyable =) thanks a lot for that lovely Psyduck pattern!

    I wanted to point out a small typo in the pattern: at the beak part, row 13 it says “dc 2, inc, dc 9) x 9 (26)” where it should be “x 2” (instead of “x 9”).

    One last thing, I saw that you asked for a tag on Instagram in case we post the final product. What about Facebook? Should I use any tags? You know… For people with no Instagram account.


  5. Hi I’m Theresa and I have a little guy that wants me to make the psyduck ! The same exact color, but can’t find the colors of yarn anywhere ? If you could could you let me know where to get the colors at?thank you Theresasuszko@


  6. Hello, I need help with the BEAK part of the pattern. It’s instructing to start with “8 chains- working in the round”, so you mean to say it’s not the same as all the other parts of the this pattern (start with a magic circle), but when I look it up online, “working in the round” means making a magic circle. Sorry, I’m just so confused because then I don’t know how does Round 1 concludes in total 18 sts. Please help! 😅 Thank you!


    1. You should be working around the chains to make an oval shape. (inc, dc 5, inc) x 2 (18) means that increase in the second chain from the hook, dc in each of the next 5 chains, and increase again the last chain of that row. Repeat this is the chain loops on the other side of your work, and voila: you have 18dc in an oval shape. Hope this helps. x


      1. Thank you so much! This is my second Amigurumi, ever, and involved some techniques I’ve never used. 😄 Learn something new everyday. I love this Amigurumi Psyduck btw, thank you 😄


      2. I’m still confused. Should the beak start off with a CH16 instead of CH8? The beak keeps coming out weird when I work in the round with a CH8.


      3. But when you work in the round don’t you normally connect the last chain to the first chain with a slip stitch he and then begin round 1? By the way, thank you for the quick reply!!!


      4. Don’t connect with a slip stitch, leave the chains as a row. Work down the chain loops on one side of the chain, and once you reach the end of the row work along the chain loops on the other side of the chain row.


      5. The light bulb just turned out. After so much trial and error I finally got what you were advising. Thank you so much for your help and lovely patterns! Very much appreciated!!!


      6. I meant light bulb “turned on” hahaha I’m tired. I’ve been working on this pattern for days and got stumped on the beak. My daughter has been looking forward to it. Thanks again for all your help!

        Liked by 1 person

  7. Hi, I am trying to follow the pattern. It looks like all the previous paterns I have used must have been US ones.(I have been crocheting since age of 14. Made many baby outfits) Starting with the magic circle (new one for me) I then DC (yoh, through your stitch and pick up yarn, then YOH again which gives you 4 pieces of yarn on your hook, then you pull through two and pick up and pull through two.. To my understanding yours is just the loop of yarn on your hook, then through and pick up and then yoh and pull through the two on the hook. Oh gosh hard to explain.
    Also are you joining with a slip stitch.


      1. Hi, sorry about the rambling notes. I have found that after the 12 dc it has turned into a finger cover.I was ss and then turning and continuing that way. I will just continually dc then and see what happens. Making this for a long time Pokemon Go player.


  8. Thank you for the pattern. It is lovely. I have found two in the game. Giving one to my daughter in the Christmas calendar. I am going to make two of this. One to me and one to my daughter. Thank you for this lovely Christmas gift. Love from Norway.


  9. Hey 🙂 I am really enjoying making psyduck from your pattern 🙂 I wondered if you could clarify some things about the arms?

    I understand up to round 8-9, but I’m really confused about how it then turns into rows.

    Also, is ‘sk 1 st’ the same as a decrease?

    Thanks again for the pattern ❤


    1. Hiii! When you move on from rounds to rows you continue with R10 as normal: dc in each of the next three stitches. Turn and work the next row of stitches from the back of the work. Keep doing this until the end, it basically creates the shoulder. “Sk” is short for “skip”, so skip one stitch and place the next dc in the one after that. Not the same as decrease but does the same job I guess. Hope that helps!


      1. Hi thanks for the pattern it is turning out great so far. On the arms, when you move to rows to do chain before you turn?


  10. Hey 🙂 I thinkkkk I posted a comment last night but I’m not sure if it worked as it seemed to disappear – just wondered if had come through? 🙂


  11. Thank you so much for this pattern. Psyduck is my favorite! I’m having trouble with the toes.

    TOE NO2
    R9 – Toe no 2: attach yarn to the fourth st,

    Where do I start counting?

    Thanks!!! Happy New Year


    1. Happy New Year! You start counting from the start of the original round before you start the toes. Notice how in toe number one you dc 3 at the start and then you skip the next 14 sts? When you start your number 2 you attach the yarn to the first unworked stitch of the same round which is stitch number 4. I hope this helps.


  12. Hi I was wonder if you would get the same results from the pattern if you did Single crochets Instead of Double crochets?


  13. Pattern is going well so far! Just wondering about the second round on the arms. R2: (inc3, dc 2) x 2 (10)

    This seems like a typo maybe? R1. Is 6 in magic ring.


    1. Glad it’s going well so far! R1 is dc 6 as the pattern says. If you scroll up to stitches and abbreviations you’ll see inc3 is “increase by placing 3 dc in one stitch”. So, in other words (dc 3 in one st, dc 2) x 2. Hope that helps.


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